SKU:
JY-UL124 . Quad Core Android 5.1.1 Lollipop OS Capacitive 7" High Definition for Universal Double Din . CPU: RK3188 1.6GHz Cortex A9 Quad Core, Resolution 1024*600. RAM：DDR3 1G, 16 GB memory
To my 2014 Australian Hyundai Elantra SE.
I waited to get the latest HU from Joying that has an updated mother board and USB/ Comms board. With Lollipop 5.1.1. the unit performs very well with none of the problems previously mentioned on XDA Forum pages. The internal and external mics are clear and the Bluetooth systems are perfect. Unit has been rooted and I don't seem to need for apps so I won't changed the software.
Joying Radio’s online help ? - Their first question is to look at a picture of your dash and original radio. Via chat they said to me that they did not have a HU that would suit or could work with my car. What they meant there is no direct plug and play unit for my car. I chose their universal model complete with universal harness and have been able to fit it and have all functions working.
Original Elantra radio Cons:
Small, hard to see 5” screen.
Light blue and white only with weak washed out appearance.
Sunlight makes glare on the screen, very hard to see on bright days.
Limited functions. No Bluetooth. No GPS. No reverse camera, no front DVR camera.
New 7” Android 5.1. Head Unit
Note. Key colours are infinitely adjustable
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Android-5-1-1-Lollipop-Joying-7-Universal-Car-Radio-Quad-Core-1024-600-Car-GPS/1463369_32653370686.html
Installation:
Remove old radio – HU:
1. Remove two fresh air vents and trim either side of radio in center console. First pry the bottom near the gearstick up with plastic trim tool and then jerk up and towards you quickly - firmly. The trim is held in with multiple clips but releases cleanly without breaking.
2. Remove radio surround trim by removing 6 screws same as before, clips behind screws, yank it out towards you. Leave wires connected and rotate the surround to place it still connected on top of the dash. So you won’t have to reset the clock!
3. Remove 4 screws from radio bracket to car frame
4. Remove old radio disconnecting wiring 2 plugs and sockets and antenna connection.
5. Observe wiring diagram on case of old radio. Photograph and keep for reference.
My wiring loom connections: And redrawn to show looking into the wiring loom.
New HU installation:
Modifications:
I purchased from Joying a Hyundai IX35 harness connector as it connects with the same type of sockets in the Elantra. I had to modify the harness to line up with the wiring for my car and the new HU.
All connections were done by soldering and covering with shrink wrap. The unit was test run on the bench using a car battery.
I had to relocate some of the connections in the purchased IX35 harness to line up with my loom. It is difficult to remove and replace the pins without a proper tool.
A tool was fashioned out of an old coping (fret) saw blade filed down to 1.5mm wide and some “Selleys Knead It” epoxy putty used to make the handle. Such a tool is available on Ebay etc. This tool removes the small connector blades and sockets from the new harness by depressing the small barb on the side of the pin – releasing it. They can then be reinserted to their correct place according to the wiring diagram.
Tool:
New HU pin outs and wiring. Diagram supplied by Joying with unit.
The Head Unit SW or steering control wires connect to the Hyundai SW1 and SW2 wires. In the Hyundai the steering controls are a simple resistive ladder arrangement. When connecting this to the Joying unit an earth or ground connection must be made to either one of the SW wires. I did this behind the HU. Without this earth the software will not recognise the wheel after - it’s ok.
Harness was connected up using wiring diagrams. All wiring was tagged by me for easy reference.
Front DVR camera was purchased from Joying with the HU. Camera was placed on windscreen behind mirror.
Cabling for Camera:
IMPORTANT – you will be working around the “A pillar” safety Air Bag. Hyundai and most manufacturers advise disconnecting the vehicles battery and holding the brake pedal down for a few minutes to empty the car wiring and equipment of any residual electricity. Failure to do this may end up in inadvertently firing the drivers air bag and causing injury!
The cable from camera is tucked under the hood lining in front of the mirror and down behind the A pillar trim. The A pillar trim can be popped out at the top only and is tethered by a safety clip. Take care to pop the trim out to the first stop only; if you yank it right out you will have to replace it as it is sacrificial i.e. removed once only past the second stop. The A pillar air bag is behind the trim. Be sure to route the camera wiring behind the air bag brackets to ensure correct operation of air bag. The wire is then routed behind the dash side trim and inside the dash to the HU.
The external microphone was placed at the top of the A pillar trim and routed similarly.
The external GPS antenna provided was placed in the front top of the dashboard under the windscreen in the corner and bottom of the A pillar. The cable for the antenna follows the route of the camera and mic.
Rear backup camera was purchased from AliExpress. I could only find one that would fit in the trunk center cut out provided by Hyundai. To run the cable from the trunk to the HU involved removing flooring side trim up one side of the car. Take a tip and buy a set of trim removal tools from Ebay or somewhere - makes life much easier! The rear camera was pretty much a pretty crap fit and I had to ditch the clip on the camera body and fit it in the hole in the trunk with waterproof double sided tape. This camera is waterproof and operates well.
Ensure provided “back” wire is connected to the rear reverse light and onto the “back” connection behind the radio this turns on the HU to receive the video. See Joying wiring diagram. A good tutorial for this is available from Joying Radios.
Lighting problem:
I wanted the HU button back lights and the screen brightness to follow the car’s dashboard control (Rheostat) the same as the dashboard lights.
The Hyundai car’s rheostat control presents a problem as it uses switching electrical circuits on the ground side and provides 2 wires to all of the dash lights, a –ve ill and a +ve ill (illumination).
It turns out that both lines going to the bulbs which illuminate the dash are controlled. One comes from the battery through the illumination relay, which is powered when the parking lights are on. That makes this line +12 volts when the lights are on, and floating when they're off. The other line comes from the illumination control module, and is modulated to be close to 0 volts (ground) when the dash lights are to be their brightest and close to 12 volts when they should be dim because two 12v equals no potential difference right?
The Joying HU has 1 one wire for illumination (white – orange). This is for 12v +ve to back light the buttons. This is a problem as using either one of the connections directly to the rheostat would leave the lights full on or off.
Fixing the dimming for the button and the screen to follow the vehicles rheostat was fixed by making a circuit to invert and amplify the rheostat output to the HU ill line. This work's well, Kudos to the guys at the Subaru forums where a good explanation can be found.
www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/dimmer/0
Circuit mod module was manufactured using cheap parts and some vero board then wired in line behind HU.
A simulated circuit working on my computer>
A closer look at the mod cct and needed components
Actual modification module.
Testing module
A problem arose:
Listening to radio while parked. Acc on.
When starting the car starter motor drew current away from HU momentarily turning it off. When starting ceased the radio returns to life with a sharp crack or pop sound.
Solution found in Joying forums>
http://www.forum.carjoying.com/thread-70-power-cycle-when-restarting-the-engine.html
and
http://forum.carjoying.com/thread-79-simple-delay-shutdown.html
Place a 470uf 16v Electrolytic capacitor between the earth (ground) –ve rail and the Acc + wire with the –ve side of the capacitor to the –ve rail. Also place a inline protective 1N4007 Diode in line with the Acc wire with the Anode towards the power feed. This holds the Acc wire (and radio) up for 4 seconds which stops the noise problem. For longer delays change the 470uf capacitor to a larger value.
Fitting the HU to the Car:
Obtain from Metra a suitable HU surround to fit this radio:
Metra Kit with HU to body brackets complete. This replaces the original radio surround and is a neat fit. Part No: 95-7362B
http://www.metraonline.com/part/95-7362B
This is a very nice moulding and looks part of the car, I intend to vinyl wrap this part with a dark textured 3M Vinyl with grainy texture similar to the top of the dash.
I had to remove about 2mm of the opening to let the HU through the cut out. This was done using a 10” sharp file, taking care not to damage the front of the surround. Not hard to do and better than the hole being too big and having to find a mask.
Installed unit>
The screen is now bigger and set at a steeper angle which eliminates a lot of the glare. It looks a bit crinkly as the screen protector has been off and on; I have a new one to fit soon.
And it is Android. 5.1 – great!
Operation:
When problems have arisen I have contacted Joying via email. While understandably not lightning fast with their replies they DO get back to you. Language differences are a problem but not as much as I thought would be.
When I had the radio going I turned on the provided IGo nav app. The app for me is very good. Problem was when I plugged in the front camera to use the DVR then it would mute all audio in the GPS and music player. I asked Joying about a fix and they sent me a link to update the firmware to the most recent version. This fixed the issue completely.
The HU still has some issues but to be expected with the first release of 5.1:
When making changes to anything in the “Factory Setup” area like the SW control setup, be sure to re select the car Logo icon before saving otherwise it will reset to generic icon. A bug I hope will be fixed in the next update.
There is a problem with my particular car using the Hyundai “Multimedia ports” - USB and AUX in jacks are housed in a tidy bin in the center forward console. I traced out the existing wiring and that of the HU wiring harness and linked them up as the original car. This should have worked ok as it was using the wires on the new IX35 harness adapter. The other side of the adapter had the tails pre wired with a female USB and a Aux socket so I could plug the HU straight in.
When plugging in a device to the Jacks I could get operation lights on the device so it was getting 5v battery ok but no data transfer. The head unit fails to recognise or display the device.
I thought it may be a distance from the head problem so I plugged devices into the USB tails coming out of the HU and they worked fine. I was even able to operate a 500g external drive correctly. So it is not the HU but a design problem with the remote jacks in the car and their associated circuitry.
Looking at the wiring diagrams for my car and after dismantling the MM Jacks I found a circuit board at the back of the Jacks. This cct is quite complicated and seems to be a remote amplifier and impedance matching device. Looking at the wiring diagrams of the model previous to mine I see the amp ccts but no values displayed.
The existing console Jacks>
www.hemanual.org/multimedia_jack_description_and_operation-2037.html
The wiring for same 2013 (mine is 2014 same but more complex)>
www.hemanual.org/multimedia_jack_schematic_diagrams-2036.html
I have put that in the too hard basket and opted for a aftermarket Aux in and USB set that I will house on the side of the console beside the 12v power skt. Thereby bypassing the original setup. I know this will work as I have tested the system with an extension USB and that works ok with various devices. That way I can leave the vehicle MM Jacks for future returning the car to standard. This remote device will plug directly into the HU harness.
The radio and music player operates very well. Audio fidelity in playback is as good as the original radio with no dropouts.
I read earlier versions of this radio had problems with the Bluetooth and mobile telephone usage. There was echoing and distortion in the mics and speakers. This unit however has a newer mother and daughter board and has no problems with either mic. Both the sender and receiver seem clear and without distortion.
Any questions should be referred to my post on the Hyundai Forums where I have made some posts and I use regularly. I am pleased to be of any help I can.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/md-2011-2016-elantra-sedan-coupe/
I am registered as “duke12” there
Duke
New 7” Android 5.1. Head Unit
Note. Key colours are infinitely adjustable
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Android-5-1-1-Lollipop-Joying-7-Universal-Car-Radio-Quad-Core-1024-600-Car-GPS/1463369_32653370686.html
Installation:
Remove old radio – HU:
1. Remove two fresh air vents and trim either side of radio in center console. First pry the bottom near the gearstick up with plastic trim tool and then jerk up and towards you quickly - firmly. The trim is held in with multiple clips but releases cleanly without breaking.
2. Remove radio surround trim by removing 6 screws same as before, clips behind screws, yank it out towards you. Leave wires connected and rotate the surround to place it still connected on top of the dash. So you won’t have to reset the clock!
3. Remove 4 screws from radio bracket to car frame
4. Remove old radio disconnecting wiring 2 plugs and sockets and antenna connection.
5. Observe wiring diagram on case of old radio. Photograph and keep for reference.
My wiring loom connections: And redrawn to show looking into the wiring loom.
New HU installation:
Modifications:
I purchased from Joying a Hyundai IX35 harness connector as it connects with the same type of sockets in the Elantra. I had to modify the harness to line up with the wiring for my car and the new HU.
All connections were done by soldering and covering with shrink wrap. The unit was test run on the bench using a car battery.
I had to relocate some of the connections in the purchased IX35 harness to line up with my loom. It is difficult to remove and replace the pins without a proper tool.
A tool was fashioned out of an old coping (fret) saw blade filed down to 1.5mm wide and some “Selleys Knead It” epoxy putty used to make the handle. Such a tool is available on Ebay etc. This tool removes the small connector blades and sockets from the new harness by depressing the small barb on the side of the pin – releasing it. They can then be reinserted to their correct place according to the wiring diagram.
Tool:
New HU pin outs and wiring. Diagram supplied by Joying with unit.
The Head Unit SW or steering control wires connect to the Hyundai SW1 and SW2 wires. In the Hyundai the steering controls are a simple resistive ladder arrangement. When connecting this to the Joying unit an earth or ground connection must be made to either one of the SW wires. I did this behind the HU. Without this earth the software will not recognise the wheel after - it’s ok.
Harness was connected up using wiring diagrams. All wiring was tagged by me for easy reference.
Front DVR camera was purchased from Joying with the HU. Camera was placed on windscreen behind mirror.
Cabling for Camera:
IMPORTANT – you will be working around the “A pillar” safety Air Bag. Hyundai and most manufacturers advise disconnecting the vehicles battery and holding the brake pedal down for a few minutes to empty the car wiring and equipment of any residual electricity. Failure to do this may end up in inadvertently firing the drivers air bag and causing injury!
The cable from camera is tucked under the hood lining in front of the mirror and down behind the A pillar trim. The A pillar trim can be popped out at the top only and is tethered by a safety clip. Take care to pop the trim out to the first stop only; if you yank it right out you will have to replace it as it is sacrificial i.e. removed once only past the second stop. The A pillar air bag is behind the trim. Be sure to route the camera wiring behind the air bag brackets to ensure correct operation of air bag. The wire is then routed behind the dash side trim and inside the dash to the HU.
The external microphone was placed at the top of the A pillar trim and routed similarly.
The external GPS antenna provided was placed in the front top of the dashboard under the windscreen in the corner and bottom of the A pillar. The cable for the antenna follows the route of the camera and mic.
Rear backup camera was purchased from AliExpress. I could only find one that would fit in the trunk center cut out provided by Hyundai. To run the cable from the trunk to the HU involved removing flooring side trim up one side of the car. Take a tip and buy a set of trim removal tools from Ebay or somewhere - makes life much easier! The rear camera was pretty much a pretty crap fit and I had to ditch the clip on the camera body and fit it in the hole in the trunk with waterproof double sided tape. This camera is waterproof and operates well.
Ensure provided “back” wire is connected to the rear reverse light and onto the “back” connection behind the radio this turns on the HU to receive the video. See Joying wiring diagram. A good tutorial for this is available from Joying Radios.
Lighting problem:
I wanted the HU button back lights and the screen brightness to follow the car’s dashboard control (Rheostat) the same as the dashboard lights.
The Hyundai car’s rheostat control presents a problem as it uses switching electrical circuits on the ground side and provides 2 wires to all of the dash lights, a –ve ill and a +ve ill (illumination).
It turns out that both lines going to the bulbs which illuminate the dash are controlled. One comes from the battery through the illumination relay, which is powered when the parking lights are on. That makes this line +12 volts when the lights are on, and floating when they're off. The other line comes from the illumination control module, and is modulated to be close to 0 volts (ground) when the dash lights are to be their brightest and close to 12 volts when they should be dim because two 12v equals no potential difference right?
The Joying HU has 1 one wire for illumination (white – orange). This is for 12v +ve to back light the buttons. This is a problem as using either one of the connections directly to the rheostat would leave the lights full on or off.
Fixing the dimming for the button and the screen to follow the vehicles rheostat was fixed by making a circuit to invert and amplify the rheostat output to the HU ill line. This work's well, Kudos to the guys at the Subaru forums where a good explanation can be found.
www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/dimmer/0
Circuit mod module was manufactured using cheap parts and some vero board then wired in line behind HU.
A simulated circuit working on my computer>
A closer look at the mod cct and needed components
Actual modification module.
Testing module
A problem arose:
Listening to radio while parked. Acc on.
When starting the car starter motor drew current away from HU momentarily turning it off. When starting ceased the radio returns to life with a sharp crack or pop sound.
Solution found in Joying forums>
http://www.forum.carjoying.com/thread-70-power-cycle-when-restarting-the-engine.html
and
http://forum.carjoying.com/thread-79-simple-delay-shutdown.html
Place a 470uf 16v Electrolytic capacitor between the earth (ground) –ve rail and the Acc + wire with the –ve side of the capacitor to the –ve rail. Also place a inline protective 1N4007 Diode in line with the Acc wire with the Anode towards the power feed. This holds the Acc wire (and radio) up for 4 seconds which stops the noise problem. For longer delays change the 470uf capacitor to a larger value.
Fitting the HU to the Car:
Obtain from Metra a suitable HU surround to fit this radio:
Metra Kit with HU to body brackets complete. This replaces the original radio surround and is a neat fit. Part No: 95-7362B
http://www.metraonline.com/part/95-7362B
This is a very nice moulding and looks part of the car, I intend to vinyl wrap this part with a dark textured 3M Vinyl with grainy texture similar to the top of the dash.
I had to remove about 2mm of the opening to let the HU through the cut out. This was done using a 10” sharp file, taking care not to damage the front of the surround. Not hard to do and better than the hole being too big and having to find a mask.
Installed unit>
The screen is now bigger and set at a steeper angle which eliminates a lot of the glare. It looks a bit crinkly as the screen protector has been off and on; I have a new one to fit soon.
And it is Android. 5.1 – great!
Operation:
When problems have arisen I have contacted Joying via email. While understandably not lightning fast with their replies they DO get back to you. Language differences are a problem but not as much as I thought would be.
When I had the radio going I turned on the provided IGo nav app. The app for me is very good. Problem was when I plugged in the front camera to use the DVR then it would mute all audio in the GPS and music player. I asked Joying about a fix and they sent me a link to update the firmware to the most recent version. This fixed the issue completely.
The HU still has some issues but to be expected with the first release of 5.1:
When making changes to anything in the “Factory Setup” area like the SW control setup, be sure to re select the car Logo icon before saving otherwise it will reset to generic icon. A bug I hope will be fixed in the next update.
There is a problem with my particular car using the Hyundai “Multimedia ports” - USB and AUX in jacks are housed in a tidy bin in the center forward console. I traced out the existing wiring and that of the HU wiring harness and linked them up as the original car. This should have worked ok as it was using the wires on the new IX35 harness adapter. The other side of the adapter had the tails pre wired with a female USB and a Aux socket so I could plug the HU straight in.
When plugging in a device to the Jacks I could get operation lights on the device so it was getting 5v battery ok but no data transfer. The head unit fails to recognise or display the device.
I thought it may be a distance from the head problem so I plugged devices into the USB tails coming out of the HU and they worked fine. I was even able to operate a 500g external drive correctly. So it is not the HU but a design problem with the remote jacks in the car and their associated circuitry.
Looking at the wiring diagrams for my car and after dismantling the MM Jacks I found a circuit board at the back of the Jacks. This cct is quite complicated and seems to be a remote amplifier and impedance matching device. Looking at the wiring diagrams of the model previous to mine I see the amp ccts but no values displayed.
The existing console Jacks>
www.hemanual.org/multimedia_jack_description_and_operation-2037.html
The wiring for same 2013 (mine is 2014 same but more complex)>
www.hemanual.org/multimedia_jack_schematic_diagrams-2036.html
I have put that in the too hard basket and opted for a aftermarket Aux in and USB set that I will house on the side of the console beside the 12v power skt. Thereby bypassing the original setup. I know this will work as I have tested the system with an extension USB and that works ok with various devices. That way I can leave the vehicle MM Jacks for future returning the car to standard. This remote device will plug directly into the HU harness.
The radio and music player operates very well. Audio fidelity in playback is as good as the original radio with no dropouts.
I read earlier versions of this radio had problems with the Bluetooth and mobile telephone usage. There was echoing and distortion in the mics and speakers. This unit however has a newer mother and daughter board and has no problems with either mic. Both the sender and receiver seem clear and without distortion.
Any questions should be referred to my post on the Hyundai Forums where I have made some posts and I use regularly. I am pleased to be of any help I can.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/md-2011-2016-elantra-sedan-coupe/
I am registered as “duke12” there
Duke
